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Wd Raid Manager For Mac: Tips and Tricks for Using Your WD Products



I see that WD My book Duo has a 28TB option for RAid 1 which would mean you have only one disk 14tb with a copy (Raid 1 by definition). The setup would cost me $1000. Is there a cheaper way to get massive amount of storage (two 14+, preferably 20TB) that I can do a Raid 1. Essentially the question is, I would like to have a cheaper version of the My book duo but with even more memory space, like two disks of 20TB each. and do a raid 1 configuration.


4) Configuring the RAID to use RAID cache, BUT NOT DISK CACHE. Per disk cache in a raid offers a near guarantee of either a drive failure or worse when your power goes out, your kid turns off the RAID while in use or your UPS goes out (oh yeah it happens). RAID cache is reliable enough to enjoy the performance benefits, presuming you have a redundant backup of the component in your RAID.




Wd Raid Manager For Mac




I think the confusion comes with people using raid and thinking its as good as a backup. Its not. But if you want to make sure your backups are viable I would store them on a raid 1. Then it is less likely when you need to go to that backup that its bad.I use ZFS with scrubs + ecc to ensure no bit rot creeps into my backups too.


Nice right up. Raid 5 is not for speed, its actually slow on rebuilds. Raid 0 is for speed then raid 1 then raid 10. Raid 0 if one drive fails you are dead. Raid 1 you can loose one drive and still keep working. Raid 6 and raid 10 can loose 2 drives with 6 being slower on rebuilds. Raid 10 is probably the best for speed with Raid 6 being better for getting more space per drive when you go past 4 drives. None are for backups but for preventing downtime and data loss.


But I think your backup drive should be raid 6 or 10. ZFS files system is also nice to prevent bit rot. Lets say you need your backup and its on just a solo drive and that drive has bad sectors. That backup is no good. That same backup on a good raid with zfs is very unlikely to ever go bad. Of course if the building they are in blows up then its all gone so offsite is smart.


I think RAID 1 will beg you back up and running faster than no raid at all. But I am inclined to agree, redundancy is not quite the same as a backup. For day to day recovery from mistakes or misplaced files, a regular backup is better. But I am not so convinced that it replaces RAID 1 for a catastrophic failure. I think both backing up files and RAIDing systems is a best approach.


This is a much bigger problem. I've had both Seagate and WD drives silently trashed... 4 in the first 4 days after upgrading. No 3rd party drive software, no raid... all were in a PROBOX 4-bay USB dock.


In this main interface of this free partition manager, distinguish the new hard drive by viewing the hard drive information. Since a new drive has no partition, please select the unallocated space and choose Create Partition from the action panel.


If the hard drive is hidden by some partition manager, it won't appear in File Explorer. However, this time you cannot fix this issue by simply add a drive letter to it. You should use that specific partition manager or MiniTool Partition Wizard to unhide that partition.


I can't find my hard disk anywhere on my computer. The light comes on, it sounds and feels like the HD is working but it will not identify on any computer, regardless of drivers or in the drive manager. I opened it and the corners of the board look like they got hot. Is it worth it to replace the board?


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